Second-hand guitars can be fantastic value. Many are already played in, and you can often get a better instrument for your budget than buying new. But a used guitar can also hide problems that cost more to fix than you saved.
Whether you’re buying from Marktplaats, a friend, a shop or a guitar show, use this checklist before you hand over any money.
What to Bring
- A tuner (a clip-on is perfect; see how to choose a guitar tuner)
- A cable, and if possible a small amp or headphone amp for electric guitars
- A phone torch for looking into the body and at the frets
- A steel ruler with millimetre markings, if you want to measure the action
1. The Neck
The neck is the most important (and most expensive to fix) part of the guitar.
- Sight down the neck from the headstock towards the body, like looking down a rifle. A slight forward curve is normal. Look for a twist, a strong bow or a hump.
- Check the truss rod. Ask if it has been adjusted recently and if there’s still adjustment left. A truss rod that’s maxed out is a warning sign.
- Look for cracks around the headstock and where the neck meets the body. Headstock repairs are common, especially on guitars with angled headstocks. A good repair is fine, but it should be reflected in the price.
2. The Frets
- Look for deep grooves under the strings in the first few frets. Some wear is normal; deep divots mean a fret levelling or refret soon.
- Run your hand along the edges of the neck. Sharp fret ends usually just mean the guitar has dried out, which a setup fixes.
- Play every fret on every string and listen for buzz or notes that choke. Our guide to fret buzz explains what the causes mean.
3. The Action and Playability
Measure the action at the 12th fret, or just play it. If it’s very high and the saddles are already at their lowest, the neck angle may be a problem. Typical measurements are in our guide to guitar action.
4. The Electronics (Electric Guitars)
Plug it in and:
- Turn every knob through its full range and listen for crackles
- Try every pickup position on the switch
- Wiggle the cable at the output jack while playing
- Tap each pickup gently with a pick to check it’s working
Crackles and dead spots are often just dirty pots or a loose jack, which are cheap to fix. See what causes guitar electronics noise.
5. The Body and Finish
- Cosmetic wear (dings, scratches, belt buckle rash) usually doesn’t affect playability and can bring the price down.
- Cracks in the body, especially on acoustics, need closer attention. Check the top around the bridge and soundhole.
- On acoustics, check if the bridge is lifting at the back edge (try slipping a piece of paper under it) and whether the top bulges behind the bridge. Both can be signs of humidity damage. More in How Humidity Affects Your Guitar.
6. The Hardware
- Do the tuners turn smoothly and hold pitch?
- Are any screws, saddles or springs missing?
- Does the tremolo return to pitch?
Tune it up, play for a few minutes, then check the tuning again. If it drifts a lot, read Why Won’t My Guitar Stay in Tune?
7. Is It Genuine?
For valuable brands and vintage instruments, check serial numbers, logos, hardware and any paperwork. If something feels off, ask questions, and walk away if you’re not sure.
Budget for a Setup
Almost every used guitar benefits from a setup: fresh strings, a clean, a truss rod and action adjustment, and intonation. Factor that into your budget. It often turns a “decent” guitar into a great one.
Bought a Second-Hand Guitar?
Bring it to GuitarBuddy in Zandvoort and we’ll check it over and set it up. We work with players in Haarlem, Aerdenhout and Amsterdam. Book your guitar setup.
